Torsens do not need, and do not benefit from, "Limited Slip Differential" additives. Best of luck doing this and let me know how it goes."Limited Slip Differential" additive is generally a friction reducer intended for clutch-type (prealoaded plate) differentials. Butter.Ī great guide on adjusting the pedal can be found here ( ). No grinding, no difficult putting it into gear, goes right into gear. I adjusted the pedal all the way out (with maximum travel) and this solved my notch shifting. It had quite a bit of play and the clutch only engaged after being pushed in 3/4 of the way. I had even ordered a new slave cylinder off Amazon and it’s in the mail.īut after all the work I put into bleeding the clutch, replacing all the fluids and trying things like double clutching I finally decided to adjust the pedal. I even bled out the slave cylinder (which was a complete bitch – stripped bleeder vaulve). After I replaced the clutch I replaced all the fluids with new fluids. I recently replaced the clutch/pressure plate/flywheel in my 1991 Mazda Miata. It was also grinding when going into 3/4. And with the pedal all the way in I had to jam it into 1/2 and turn the car off to put it in R.
I had been pushing the pedal all the way to the floor. I know a lot of other people have had the same problem. I’ve been scouring the internet to find a solution to my notching/difficult shifting. Here is a kit that I found online, similar to the one I bought years ago: I went out to the garage ealier this morning to see if I still had the box (yes, I tend to never throw things away), and I don’t have it. The kit I bought years ago came with everything. With 70k, and any time you go that deep into the drivetrain, just go ahead and replace the pilot bearing, you may want to also inspect your flywheel (although the 1.6/1.8 liters are tough engines) and have it turned and re-weighted (balanced). With 70,000 miles on the clock, will I have to replace the pilot bearing at this point? I don’t think that I would be in there for quite a while after that. At this point, I think that I have made up my mind that it just may be the clutch. I have also had the fluid flushed about once or twice a year. I have, in fact checked the hydraulic lines for leaks and such. This is a mild problem and is not enough to sto me driving (as this is my commuter car). Could the synchronizer on first gear be damaged? I recently replaced the shifter and the bushings, and refilled the “turret” with oil. All other gears shift well now that clutch pedal play is good. If while stopped, I shift into second and then back to first, it’ll go into 1st gear.
REDLINE GEARBOX OIL FOR 1995 MIATA FREE
The clutch pedal play and free play are adjusted correctly. I have cut the carpet to make interferece impossible. So, sometimes, not all the time, from a dead stop, the shifter does not always want to go into 1st gear. I have Redline 75W-90 synthetic trans fluid. I surmise that the clutch slave cylinder was not extending enough and the clutch was dragging slightly making shifts into first and sometimes second difficult. After owning the car for a few years, I discovered that the clutch pedal throw was not adjusted correctly. First, Great new web site Eric! I have a 2003 Mazda Miata with the 5 speed transmission (bought with 200 miles on it in 2004).